Alençon lace

Alençon lace, needle lace produced in Alençon in northwestern France. The city of Alençon was already famous for its cutwork and reticella when in 1665 Louis XIV’s minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert introduced Venetian lacemakers into the area to teach the local women the secrets of the grand but very expensive needle laces then being imported from Venice. These imitations were followed by the development of a new style of “national” lace to be known as point de France.

During the first quarter of the 18th century, fashion favoured lighter laces, and point de France was replaced by Alençon lace, which is characterized by a delicate meshwork ground and design motifs each surrounded by a raised rim (cordonnet) worked by buttonholing over thread and decorated by a series of tiny loops (picots), their size standardized by being worked over the tip of a horse hair. Alençon lace was popular at court in the last quarter of the 18th century and again during the First Empire of Napoleon I (1804–15) and was resurrected by the Empress Eugénie in the mid-19th century. Some fine pieces were produced by the firm of Lefebure in Bayeux between 1900 and 1914. See also Argentan lace.