Manhattan

More than 30 million tourists visit New York annually, but most of these rarely see much beyond the 22.6 square miles (58.5 square km) of Manhattan island, the smallest city borough. Divided by 12 north-south avenues and crossed by 220 east-west streets, Manhattan is easily understood and infinitely alluring. It is the original New York, boasts the world’s largest collection of skyscrapers, and is overloaded with cultural institutions and places of enduring interest. Even to residents of the other boroughs, Manhattan is “the city,” the administrative, business, and financial centre of the metropolis and the basis of their renown. In no other part of New York are there such stark contrasts between rich and poor. The high-rise elegance of Park Avenue and the Upper East Side rapidly gives way to the teeming streets of Harlem to the north and to the crowded bohemian existence of the Lower East Side and Greenwich Village to the south. This cruel modern dichotomy echoes the 19th-century city, where industrial millionaires lived in luxury in Fifth Avenue mansions (now largely converted into cultural centres) far from the immigrant masses on the Lower East Side (whose sufferings the Tenement Museum now honours).

Within this formidable historical imbalance, Manhattan is really composed of neighbourhoods that offer peaceful havens to contented residents. Many areas of the island are world famous, among them such ethnic enclaves as Chinatown, Yorkville, Little Italy, Spanish Harlem, and Black Harlem. In the streets snaking north from the ancient Dutch Battery, twisting lanes remind walkers that Manhattan was a trade centre before Boston, Philadelphia, or Williamsburg existed. Wall Street, the financial centre of the globe, was originally a Dutch fortification (1653) against feared British or Native American attacks that never came. The jumble of pre-Revolutionary streets continues up to Houston Street, where the grid pattern becomes dominant and continues up the island. Soho (short for “south of Houston”) covers much of the old immigrant East Side and now has been matched by a Noho neighbourhood. To the west is Henry James’s Washington Square and beyond that Greenwich Village, formerly a haven for artists but today home to the affluent and professional classes.

In 2003 the first section of Hudson River Park opened. Covering some 550 acres (223 hectares) of renovated piers and waterfront land, the park runs along some 4 miles (6 km) of Manhattan’s West Side from Battery Park north to 59th Street. The West Side is also the site of the High Line, a 1.45-mile- (2.3-km-) long elevated park, which was established along an abandoned spur of the New York Central Railroad and which runs from just below 14th Street north to West 34th Street. Chelsea and Gramercy Park offer diverse attractions before one reaches Times Square, the “Crossroads of the World,” transformed at the end of the 20th century from a sleazy strip to a centre of tourism. At Columbus Circle visitors may enter Central Park, some 840 acres (340 hectares) of greenery created by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux in the mid-19th century to serve as the “lungs” of the city and defended with vigour against all commercial encroachment.

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The Upper West Side is filled with brownstone blocks and high-rise apartments and is home ground to the liberal Democratic Party politics long identified with the modern city. East Harlem is predominantly Hispanic, as is Washington Heights, but the two are separated by Black Harlem and the academic bastion of Columbia University on Morningside Heights. At the far north of the island—where Manhattan actually spills into the Bronx—Irish influence predominates. Only in the few blocks of Marble Hill is Manhattan part of the mainland United States.

No area of New York demonstrates change and dynamism as fully as Manhattan. Millions enter it daily to seek their fortunes, and additional millions come to marvel at their efforts. It is Manhattan that they label a “great place, but I wouldn’t want to live there.” Although it is chockablock with buildings with 50 or more floors, Manhattan has a storied past that can be partly recaptured by visiting South Street Seaport, riding the Staten Island Ferry, or walking through its distinctive neighbourhoods. Manhattan means Tammany Hall, the archetype of the political machine, as well as the reformers that overthrew the “Tiger.” It is supremely cosmopolitan, boasting some of the world’s best restaurants and a myriad of cultural institutions, yet folksy enough to have block parties. Manhattan’s variety and pace make New York the number one tourist city in America.

The Bronx

The Bronx is the northernmost borough and (except for a tiny sliver of Manhattan) the only part of New York on the mainland. It was first settled by farmers and for centuries remained rural. Originally tied to Manhattan only by the King’s Bridge across the Spuyten Duyvil Creek, it was the scene of much conflict during the American Revolution, but afterward it became the area where wealthy politicians and merchants established summer homes. In the late 19th century it was home to a racetrack where the Belmont Stakes were run until 1889. Railroads, additional bridges, and commerce gradually bound the Bronx to the lower city, and in 1874 the towns of Morrisania, West Farms, and Kingsbridge were annexed by Manhattan. Elevated rail lines soon entered two new wards of the city, and vast parks were authorized; the modern borough, 42 square miles (109 square km) in area, is still one-fourth parkland. When additional land from the Bronx was added to New York in the consolidation of 1898, the modern borough was created. Prior to 1910 subway lines snaked their way north to facilitate population growth in the former farmland. By the time Bronx county was established in 1914, it had large groups of Italians, Jews, Irish, and Armenians. Many found work on public works projects, such as those that built parks, the Bronx Zoo, the New York Botanical Garden, or the Jerome Park Reservoir. Others laboured on the uptown campus of New York University, which is home to the country’s first Hall of Fame (for Great Americans), expanded the subway system, or constructed Yankee Stadium (1923), the house that baseball legend Babe Ruth reputedly built. Fordham Road became a major shopping street, and the Grand Concourse won favour as one of the most prestigious addresses in the city. The borough still has the greatest number of Art Deco buildings in the world.

An old Broadway song informed Americans that “the Bronx is up,” but few areas of the country experienced as precipitous a drop from prosperity as the Bronx did. For roughly a decade after the mid-1960s, the Bronx became the scene of classic urban decay caused by widespread poverty, crime, drug dealers, renegade landlords, and the strain of accepting wave after wave of immigrants. As drug and gang wars robbed young people of their future, both the infrastructure and the quality of life for many in the underserved portions of the borough declined rapidly. Although fully linked to the metropolis by railroads and such bridges as the Robert F. Kennedy (1936; formerly called Triborough), Whitestone (1939), and Throgs Neck (1961), the South Bronx became a national symbol of urban blight and hopelessness. Frequent fires laid waste to large tracts of the neighbourhood. Jewish residents fled the Grand Concourse to live in Co-op City, a housing complex near Eastchester Bay whose more than 15,000 apartments made it the largest such development in the country. In the eyes of some observers, the spread of deteriorating conditions northward from Mott Haven, Hunt’s Point, and Morrisania threatened to turn the entire borough into a blighted area.

During the last quarter of the 20th century, the tide of decay reversed, and the Bronx rebounded in remarkable fashion. Laws that limited insurance payouts sharply reduced acts of landlord arson, and vacant lands were filled with single-family and row housing. Thousands of apartments were rehabilitated or restored with government funds, and hundreds more were saved by individuals who refused to give in to lawlessness. Tensions between competing populations eased. (According to the 2020 census, the borough’s population was nearly 55 percent Hispanic, about 29 percent African American, nearly 9 percent white, and about 5 percent Asian.) Crime and violence declined. At the same time, the Bronx, and the South Bronx in particular, became the birthplace of the hip-hop cultural movement, whose musical component probably originated with the huge sound system and twin turntables used at parties by the Jamaican immigrant DJ Cool Herc.

By the mid-1990s the Bronx’s population was rising, and the upper-class enclaves of Riverdale and City Island once again ranked as sought-after housing areas for the city elite. By the 2010s portions of the South Bronx had become dramatically gentrified. The number of housing units in the borough rose from about 451,000 in 1980 to about 512,000 in 2010. But, though much of the focus of development and rehabilitation was on the creation of affordable housing, it was too costly for many of the citizens of the Bronx, which remained one of the most prominent centres of urban poverty in the United States as the 21st century progressed.