Onam

Onam, Hindu harvest festival that occurs in the Malayali month of Chingam, which overlaps with August and September in the Gregorian calendar. The 10-day harvest festival celebrates the Malayali New Year and is observed predominantly in the southern Indian state of Kerala. Other Indian regions, such as Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, and Maharashtra, also have Onam celebrations. The legend behind the festival tells the story of King Mahabali and his selflessness and devotion to the Hindu god Vishnu.

King Mahabali and the origin story of Onam

King Mahabali was the asura king of Kerala. Asuras are a class of power-seeking demons in Hindu mythology who are constantly in conflict with the devas, the gods of the skies, air, and earth, in an eternal struggle between good and evil. Mahabali was the grandson of Prahlada and the son of Virochana. All three were devotees of Vishnu, one of the principal deities of Hinduism. Despite the fact that he was an asura, Mahabali was described as a righteous and charitable man who treated all of his subjects equally. The state of Kerala thrived under his rule, and Mahabali was beloved by his people.

The devas disliked that Mahabali was becoming more powerful and gaining more territory. In fact, he had usurped the god Indra, king of the heavens, and taken control of the skies. The devas approached Vishnu and begged him to do something about the king’s unmitigated power and influence. In response Vishnu decided to test Mahabali’s devotion to him.

Vishnu appeared to Mahabali in his Vamana, or dwarf, avatar (incarnation) while Mahabali was performing ritual yagna, or offering, for Vishnu. The dwarf boy, posing as a poor Brahman, asked the king for a piece of land just the size of three of his steps. Mahabali agreed to his request, despite warnings from his advisor. Just as he did, Vishnu, still in his Vamana avatar form, began to grow in size until he was able to cover the Earth and the heavens in just two steps. When Vishnu asked Mahabali where his third step should land, Mahabali offered his own head. Vishnu was pleased with Mahabali’s devotion, and although Vishnu pushed him to Patala, the Hindu underworld, to restore the natural order of devas and asuras, as a reward for his devotion, the god allowed Mahabali to return to his people once a year. Onam is the celebration of Mahabali’s annual return.

The story of Vishnu’s three steps has roots in the Rigveda, but in later Brahmana and Purana texts writers developed a story around the three steps in which Vishnu, as Vamana, uses the three steps to trick the demon Mahabali, take back the world for the devas, and send Mahabali to hell. Yet even in some of those Puranic accounts, it is clear that Mahabali is not an evil demon, but rather a benevolent, just, and peaceful king devoted to Vishnu, although his power was considered to be sapping that of the devas and upsetting the natural order. In Kerala a tradition developed of associating the region with the asuras and the magnificent rule of Mahabali. In the Kerala telling Mahabali emerges as a magnificent king, and the notion that he returns annually for Onam became a part of the tradition.

Preparation and celebration

Celebrations begin on the first day of Onam, which is called Atham. On this day women usually begin to make the pookalam (also spelled pukalam), which is an elaborate flower mat (flower rangoli or kalam) used to welcome King Mahabali’s spirit. Throughout Onam, concentric circles of flowers are added to the pookalam, enhancing its beauty. These layers often act as devotional symbols to other Hindu deities. A swing is hung from the high branches of a tree and decorated with flowers. People also begin cleaning their houses in preparation for the king’s return.

On the second day of Onam, called Chithira, celebrants continue to clean in preparation and add more flowers to their pookalam. Flowers of choice are often orange, yellow, and cream-colored. On day three, called Chodi, people shop for new clothes, jewelry, and gifts, both for themselves and for family members.

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Day four of Onam, known as Visakam, features competitions and artistic performances, which take place throughout Kerala. People practice Onathallu, which is a choreographed form of sparring and is mostly done for show. During the performance, two teams challenge each other outside a circular ring, and pairs present warlike movements when they enter the ring. In some places participants actually spar with one another. Day five, called Anizham, features the Vallamkali boat races, also called snake boat races. Long, paddled war canoes with 64 or 128 paddlers aboard race along rivers and lakes in the region. The boats are usually beautifully decorated with flowers and various patterns.

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The sixth day of Onam is called Thriketta. By this time people have begun to travel to visit their families, and businesses close their doors in order to prepare for the latter days of the festival. Day seven, known as Moolam, is when dance performances begin. Trained artists perform Puli Kali (“Tiger Dance,” or “Leopard Play”), painted like tigers and leopards in bright body paint. Crowds gather to watch them dance through the streets. At this point, the state has been fully decorated, and the festival is about to truly begin. Smaller versions of the Onam Sadya feast (the large meal occurring on the final day of Onam) take place.

On the eighth day of Onam, known as Pooradam, murtis, or figurines, of King Mahabali and Vishnu’s Vamana avatar are erected at temples and in homes. The murtis are often placed in the center of the pookalam, which typically has eight rows at that point. On the ninth day of Onam, or Uthradam, gifts are given to the karanavar, an older man who heads communal villages known as tarawads. These presents are usually local farm produce or artisanal crafts. In return the karanavar offers sweets and gifts to the village.

Final day and post-Onam celebrations

The 10th day of Onam, called Thiruvonam, is the biggest day of celebration. On this day, it is said that King Mahabali will visit his faithful subjects in their homes. People wake up as early as 4:00 am to clean their homes, say prayers, light lamps, and prepare ata, an offering made of rice flour and molasses.

People also craft conical figures out of clay and paint them red. The figures are decorated with a rice-flour paste and placed in the front courtyard and other areas within the home. Some of the clay figures represent Hindu gods. Devotees then perform elaborate prayers and ceremonies wherein they make offerings to the gods, giving thanks for their harvest bounty and praying for continued blessings in the coming seasons. Karanavar present new clothing to their family members and servants, and families typically wear their best and newest clothing to visit the local temple for prayers.

Thiruvonam also features a large feast called Onam Sadya. The largest room in the house is prepared for dining. The meal typically consists of 11–13 vegetarian dishes served on banana leaves, each served in a specific order. After the meal family members participate in games and dancing for the remainder of the day. Women perform the clap dance Kaikottikali in traditional gold-bordered garments called mundu. To mark the end of Onam, many Hindus recognize an 11th day of the festival, which is used to prepare for King Mahabali’s departure. Figurines of the king are sunk in the river, and the pookalams are removed. Post-Onam celebrations may continue for several days.