baguette

bread
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French cuisine

baguette, a long, thin, crusty loaf of French bread. Tens of millions of baguettes are made and eaten around the world every day, making the baguette one of the most popular breads. It is one of the preeminent symbols of French cuisine, and, as such, it is a major point of cultural pride and culinary identity for the French and francophone countries. Baguette craftsmanship in France was named to the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2022.

Origin stories

The history of the baguette is contested, and there are few facts pointing to a single definitive origin. One theory attributes the baguette’s invention to Napoleon Bonaparte, who, according to legend, ordered that bread be made extraordinarily thin and long to better fit into a special pocket in soldier’s uniforms. Another unlikely—though well documented—explanation for the baguette’s creation is that, unlike prior breads that were reserved for the elite, it symbolized equality. After the French Revolution, the newly formed government put “the bread of equality” into law:

Richness and poverty must both disappear from the government of equality. It will no longer make a bread of wheat for the rich and a bread of bran for the poor. All bakers will be held, under the penalty of imprisonment, to make only one type of bread: The Bread of Equality.

Baguettes are made from a relatively lean dough and can be baked in large quantities; they are thus affordable for all. For this reason, some believe that baguettes were invented in response to the government’s demand for a “bread of equality.”

Slices of lemon pie topped with meringue.
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Yet another anecdote argues that the baguette was made to prevent metro workers from attacking one another with bread knives in the nascent subway systems, which were poorly lit. The tale goes that a project manager requested that the workers’ bread be proportioned so that cutting was unnecessary. Austrian entrepreneur August Zang, who played a role in the introduction of the croissant to France, is sometimes also credited with the invention of the baguette, but evidence is lacking. The last major theory posits that the modern baguette came into being when a law was passed in the 1920s prohibiting bakers from working between 10 pm and 4 am. The new restrictions prevented bakers from having enough time to bake traditional round loaves in time for breakfast, so they compensated by making breads longer and more narrow.

Most of these origin stories have no real historical basis, but they point to the bread’s vital role as a symbol of French culture. It is more likely that the bread came about as flour grew cheaper and finer and ovens became more powerful. By the mid-19th century, a longer form of the modern baguette had become a fixture in French life, especially in Paris. The term baguette (literally “little rod,” “wand,” or “baton” in French), however, was not officially used to refer to the bread until 1920.

Types and preparations

The components of a baguette are defined by law in France. They cannot include any ingredients beyond the traditional yeast, white flour, water, and salt. Elsewhere, the dough may include whole wheat or rye flours. French baguettes are usually baked on-site in boulangeries (French for bakeries) in small batches. Bakers whisk together the water and yeast before forming the dough by adding flour and then salt. The dough is removed from the mixing bowl and then kneaded until it is smooth. Many bakers then place the dough in cloth-lined baskets while it rises, which prevents it from spreading out horizontally and losing its shape. Once the dough has rested long enough to double in size, it is removed and divided into pieces. Each baguette is shaped through a series of folds and rolling motions. The dough is then scored across the top with a blade to allow for a more even bake. Baguettes are placed in a hot oven until they form golden-brown, crisp crusts. They usually weigh about 250 grams (0.6 pound), are roughly 70 cm (28 inches) long, and are about 5 or 6 cm (about 2 inches) in diameter.

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Once baked, a baguette can be prepared in myriad ways. It can be served alongside breakfast, lunch, or dinner, either on its own or split lengthwise and made into a sandwich. One of the more common preparations in France is the jambon-beurre, a ham and butter baguette sandwich. Baguettes are also regularly served with pâté, a French meat spread. In Vietnam, they are used to make banh mi sandwiches, which are filled with sliced meat, pickled vegetables, cucumber, and cilantro. In Algeria, baguettes are an important part of Ramadan celebrations and are also served daily in many households with vegetable and meat tajines (stews); garantita, a popular chickpea tart, commonly is served as a sandwich filling on a baguette with olive oil or harissa.

Roland Martin