díszmagyar

díszmagyar, ceremonial dress worn by Hungarian nobility and later by other public figures. It evolved in the second half of the 19th century and survived until World War II. The man’s suit preserved the most characteristic elements of Eastern-style dress of the 16th and 17th centuries (as well as its terminology): under the outer coat, the mente (pelisse), was the dolmány (a fitted jacket decorated with braids); tight trousers and a hat with egret feathers completed the ensemble. The style was evidently influenced by the cut, soutaches, and braids of the hussar’s traditional uniform.

The mente, usually worn thrown over the shoulders, and the hat were made of the same material, predominantly velvet, with fur trim. The long-sleeved dolmány was made of decorated silk, cut to the waist, with a stand-up collar. The trousers were worn with boots and adorned with soutaches and braids. The costume was complemented by jewelry: a spur, metallic buttons, a pelisse fastener, a belt with an attached sword, and an aigrette holder on the hat.

The woman’s outfit had its origins in the Italian Renaissance. It comprised a voluminous skirt and a front-fastening sleeveless jacket with a square neck. A loose blouse with puff sleeves and a lace-edged pinafore were usually worn underneath the jacket. This style of dress is often seen in 17th-century portraits of Hungarian noblewomen. These elements also were part of the full gala gown, which was further augmented with a veil of material matching the pinafore and decorated with a headdress or bonnet. In lieu of a blouse, lace or tulle sleeves were sewn to the gown’s bodice of coloured velvet or patterned silk, which was usually stiffened in front by fishbone and held together by ribbons threaded around hooks.