jollof rice

jollof rice, seasoned rice dish from West Africa. It is generally made with rice, tomatoes, and a variety of spices, though preparations and ingredients can differ between countries. Jollof rice likely originated in the Senegambian region (the modern-day countries of Senegal and The Gambia) before spreading throughout the rest of West Africa. The dish has become a point of cultural pride for many West Africans. In recent years there has been a friendly competition, dubbed the “jollof wars,” over who has the best variation of the dish.

History

Jollof rice was probably first cooked during the 14th century in the Wolof empire, which had risen in the previous century in what is now inland Senegal. Rice cultivation thrived in the Wolof empire and formed the basis of many dishes. One of those was thiéboudienne or thiebou dieun, a dish made by cooking rice with fish, shellfish, and vegetables; the word thiéboudienne comes from the Wolof words for rice, ceeb or thiebb, and fish, jën. As the Wolof empire expanded, the dish spread throughout the region, and different ingredients and cooking methods were introduced. Eventually, the new interpretations of thiéboudienne came to be known as jollof, a variant spelling of the dominant Jolof state in the Wolof empire. It should be noted that jollof rice did not replace thiéboudienne, which differs by its necessary ingredient of fish and is sometimes called the “national dish of Senegal.” Some consider jollof rice to be a stripped-down, simplified version of thiéboudienne, which can take much longer to prepare. Others include thiéboudienne under the umbrella of jollof rice.

Modern preparations

The contemporary versions of jollof rice—complete with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and spices—were developed after new ingredients and flavors from other parts of the world had been introduced to West Africa. Today jollof rice is a common dish throughout much of West Africa, where it is known by a number of different names. For example, in The Gambia it is called benachin. In Senegal it is still called thiéboudienne. In some French-speaking West African countries, such as Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, and Guinea, jollof rice is called riz gras, or “fat rice.” In Mali it is called nsamé or zaame. Jollof rice is commonly eaten outside Africa as well, particularly in West African diasporic communities. The dish is often made for celebrations and special occasions.

Despite differences in name and an ongoing debate over variations, the basic preparation of jollof rice is fairly consistent. A traditional recipe typically includes tomatoes, peppers (spicy, mild, or a combination), onions, chicken or beef stock, oil, spices, and rice. Cooks often begin by puréeing the tomatoes, peppers, onions, and stock. They sauté the resulting paste until it has reduced and then add in the spices and more stock. Rice is added and cooked until tender. Many jollof rice recipes include meat, depending on where it is prepared. Different countries across West Africa call for certain types of rice to be used in the dish. In Senegal it is often cooked with broken jasmine rice, while the rice used in riz gras is usually short grain. Nigerians may opt to use parboiled rice, while Ghanians often use long-grain jasmine rice. Some jollof rices, chiefly celebration or “party rices,” are cooked over live flames and thus retain a smoky flavor when served. These also form a crusty bottom layer from the high heat.

“Jollof wars”

In the 2010s the long-standing, lighthearted debate over which country and its diaspora make the best jollof rice garnered significant attention on social media and the Internet. These came to be called the “jollof wars” and center on differences in preparation and ingredients. People with roots in Cameroon, Ghana, Liberia, Nigeria, and Sierra Leone have all laid claim to the best variation of jollof rice. In general, those from The Gambia and Senegal, where the dish originated, have stayed out of the debate. Perhaps the most passionate debate has taken place between Nigerians and Ghanians, whose jollofs often use different types of rice and various aromatics. The “jollof wars,” for all their fierceness, have been credited with bringing diasporic communities across the world together as they celebrate a shared cuisine. They have also coincided with increased efforts to reclaim and highlight West African food. In the United States, the traveling Jollof Festival brings together cooks, appreciators, and community members around the dish and West African cuisine as a whole. World Jollof Rice Day is celebrated annually on August 22.